"Cabbages. Take one home with you today. It's your sweet friend," said Jack Bishop, the ingredient guru and chief creative officer of America's Test Kitchen, at the end of a segment last season.

Cabbage is a cool-weather hero of the vegetable world. The big brassicas might take up a lot of space in the fridge, but Bishop is right. You should become pals with the versatile ingredient.

It elevates a global litany of dishes with its balance of subtle sweetness and earthy depth, bringing cordial adaptability to a variety of cooking methods and cuisines. We love how the vegetable bridges culinary traditions, appearing in everything from Irish colcannon and Chinese dumplings to an all-American picnic coleslaw.

You'll find copious cabbage cultivars at the market right now. Smooth-skinned green and purple cabbage are the standard issue and can be used interchangeably; we love the slightly pungent leaves as a sturdy stuffing wrapper. Crinkly, sweet savoy is a star in slaws and stir-fries. Mild Napa is a favorite of kimchi makers.

Brussels sprouts? Also cabbages. But we'll save those wee beloveds for another day.

Raw cabbage offers a refreshing crunch that brightens salads, particularly when paired with punchy ingredients like fennel and vinegar.

Cabbage transforms with a bit of heat. It softens, releasing its natural sweetness that melts beautifully into savory dishes. Whether caramelized in a stir-fry, slow-braised with hearty meats or tucked over stuffed cabbage rolls, cabbage brings a comforting, homey flavor that eats nourishing and indulgent.

Fermented cabbage shines. The tangy complexity of sauerkraut or baechu-kimchi showcases its capacity to absorb and enhance vibrant, bold flavors while contributing its distinctive character. These fermented versions also offer purported gut health benefits.

Cabbage is also incredibly affordable and long-lasting, which makes it an ideal staple as we move into leaner months of fresh produce. So, make some space and follow Bishop's advice by taking one (or more) home with you on your next market trip.

Hand-torn cabbage

PG tested

Hand-torn cabbage (often listed as "hand cabbage") is one of my favorite dishes at Sichuan restaurants such as Chengdu Gourmet and Yue Bai Wei.

It's garlicy, hot, savory and sweet and puts the cabbage front and center. It's also remarkably quick and easy to prepare. I suggest using green cabbage or another sturdy varietal, but any type will work in a pinch.

1 pound cabbage

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 cloves garlic

3 or 4 small dried hot peppers such as Thai birdseye, cut in half

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon chinkiang or aged black vinegar (sherry or apple cider vinegars would work OK, too)

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon Sichuan peppercorns (optional, but nice)

1 scallion, sliced

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Tear cabbage into small pieces and thinly slice garlic.

Heat oil in a wok. Add garlic, peppers and optional Sichuan peppercorn. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds

Add cabbage and stir fry over high heat until cabbage begins to wilt, about 2 minutes. Cover and let cook for another minute.

Add soy sauce, vinegar and sugar. Toss until coated.

Plate and top with with scallions and sesame oil. Add a pinch of salt if desired.

— Hal B. Klein, Post-Gazette

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